Every year at Watches and Wonders, there’s that one booth that doesn’t just whisper “legacy”—it roars it in gold, diamonds, and timekeeping precision. And that’s Cartier.
With a heritage as rich as French pastry and a track record of redefining elegance, Cartier returns to Watches and Wonders in Geneva in 2025 not to follow trends—but to write new ones.
This year, the Maison continues to masterfully blur the lines between fine watchmaking and haute Joaillerie. Think more than just ticking dials. Think sculptures. Stories. Statements. A dazzling mix of geometry and gemstones, heritage silhouettes and technical finesse.
Cartier’s 2025 showcase is a bold reminder that innovation doesn’t always scream. Sometimes, it whispers—in the form of a snow-set Panthère bangle. Or reemerges with a wink—like the revived Tank à Guichets.
From a refined automatic Tank Louis Cartier with a mesmerizing guilloché dial to jewelry watches that wrap time in sapphires, this year’s collection is a testament to the Maison’s double-edged mastery: mechanical ingenuity wrapped in the poetry of high design.
Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets
Cartier’s Privé collection has become a fan-favorite for good reason—it revives historic models with just the right balance of nostalgia and refinement. For 2025, Cartier brings back a mechanical digital icon: the Tank à Guichets, originally introduced in 1928.
A true outlier in Cartier’s archives, this model famously graced the wrist of jazz legend Duke Ellington and remains a standout for its unconventional layout. Unlike traditional dials, it features a jumping hour and dragging minutes display—making it one of the earliest examples of a mechanical watch that tells time digitally.
This year’s reissue honors the original’s art deco minimalism while refreshing it through modern finishing and layout variations. The solid face, hidden numerals, and sleek geometry offer a timeless fusion of old-school elegance and forward-thinking watchmaking.
➤ Key Features
Case Dimensions
Size: 37.6mm height × 24.8mm width × 6mm thickness
Signature Tank architecture without the traditional brancards
Sleek and flat profile, enhancing the “mechanical mystery” feel
Movement
Caliber 9755 MC (manual winding)
Jumping hour and dragging minutes compilation
Movement created specifically for this model
Materials & Variants
Cartier released four different versions of the 2025 Tank à Guichets, each with a unique reference number:
➤ Yellow Gold
Reference: WGTA0234
Classic dial layout with vertical time display
Smooth brushed finish
Paired with a green alligator strap (not black, as originally stated)
➤ Rose Gold
Reference: WGTA0235
Identical to the yellow gold version in layout and size
Warm tone contrasts the minimalist dial
Dark grey alligator strap
➤ Platinum (Standard Edition)
Reference: WGTA0236
Follows the 1928 layout with vertical display
Cool-toned brushed case with elevated polish
Burgundy alligator strap
➤ Platinum (Limited Edition – Rotated Display)
Reference: WGTA0237
Limited to 200 pieces
Features a rotated, horizontal time display (hours at 10 o’clock, minutes at 4 o’clock)
Paired with a black alligator strap
Each model features a recessed crown at 12 o’clock, a signature quirk that keeps the silhouette clean. The dials are brushed in a satin-like industrial finish, emphasizing simplicity over ornamentation.
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier (Automatic)
Cartier’s Tank Louis Cartier has long been a cornerstone of refined dress watches. For 2025, the Maison introduces a significant mechanical upgrade—an automatic movement, marking a rare return to self-winding power for this historically hand-wound model.
Specifically, this is the first Tank Louis Cartier in recent memory to feature the automatic 1899 MC caliber, a movement developed in 2019. It has previously appeared in models like the updated Tank Américaine, and now debuts in the Tank Louis Cartier—offering convenience without compromising on design ethos.
To accommodate the new movement, Cartier has slightly increased the case size, but done so with restraint. The proportions are carefully balanced, maintaining the Tank’s slim profile and iconic elegance.
Design Highlights
➤ Case Dimensions
Size: 38.1mm lug-to-lug × 27.75mm width × 8.18mm thickness
Larger than prior hand-wound models, but still refined
Rounded and polished brancards (sidebars), softening the iconic rectangular shape
Case back is solid, with no exhibition window
Water resistance: 30 meters
➤ Movement
Cartier 1899 MC automatic movement
23 jewels
Frequency: 28,800vph
Power reserve: 40 hours
Operated via Cartier’s signature beaded crown with a cabochon
➤ Dial Design
Guilloché sunburst pattern, hand-applied
Lacquer overlay with a thick, glossy finish
Classic Roman numerals and railroad minute track
Marked “Cartier” and “Automatic” on the dial
Blued-steel sword-shaped hands
No seconds hand, in keeping with many of Cartier’s automatic designs
➤ Material Variants
Available in two models:
1. Yellow Gold
2. Rose Gold
Both versions come with Cartier’s semi-matte alligator leather straps, available in grey and brown.
While the specific dial material wasn’t disclosed, it’s suspected to be enamel beneath the lacquer, enhancing visual depth when viewed under light.
Cartier Tressage Collection
The Tressage watch marks Cartier’s latest evolution in blending watchmaking with sculptural artistry. The collection takes direct inspiration from the Maison’s high jewelry line also named Tressage—a French term meaning braiding. Originally introduced in 2023 as part of a dynamic jewelry collection, this motif now makes its way into horology, reimagined through volume, texture, and precious materials.
Design-wise, the Tressage timepieces adopt a tonneau-shaped, cuff-like silhouette, dominated not by the dial, but by the entwined twisted gadroons that give the piece its dimensionality. The leather strap and watch face are deliberately understated, leaving the case’s architectural lines and gem-setting to do the talking.
According to Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s Creative Director of Jewellery and Watchmaking:
“We exaggerated and amplified the classic attributes of a watch. By enlarging and elongating the brancards, we sculpted a voluptuous twist in volume… neither a bangle nor a leather strap, Tressage continues to explore that unique and atypical territory so dear to Cartier — watches of a third kind.”
This is not just a watch with jewelry flair—it’s a high-design object that redefines form itself.
➤ Models
Cartier has released four distinct variants of the Tressage watch, gradually scaling in decorative intensity:
1. Yellow Gold Model (Simple Version)
Features a black dial
Smooth twisted gadroons dominate the case
Minimalist styling with luxury presence
2. White Gold Model with Light Gem Setting
Subtle pavé diamond accents
Contrasting relief against smoother surfaces
3. White Gold High-Jewelry Version
Set with 530 brilliant-cut diamonds
Includes 330 sapphires integrated into the gadroon pattern
Designed as a full-fledged jewelry watch with vibrant sparkle and color
4. Yellow Gold Gem-Set Variant
Includes layered textures and pavé detail
Paired with colored calfskin straps for contrast
Each model is visually distinct, but all maintain the Tressage collection’s design DNA: asymmetry, braided architecture, and a sculptural play between tension and fluidity.
➤ Technical Specifications
Case Dimensions: 56.2mm × 25.7mm × 11.5mm
Movement: Quartz
Functions: Hours and minutes
Dial: Available in black or full pavé diamond
Materials: Yellow gold or white gold, with or without gem setting
Strap: Calfskin, available in assorted colors based on the model
In the Tressage collection, Cartier once again demonstrates why it's one of the few maisons that can blur the line between timekeeping and sculpture—all while delivering something that feels wearable, collectible, and avant-garde in equal measure.
Let me know when you’re ready to move on to the next section.
Panthère Bangle Watch
The Panthère Bangle Watch is Cartier at its most daring and sculptural—a seamless fusion of watchmaking and high jewelry that functions as much as an objet d’art as it does a timepiece.
Described by Cartier as “a piece of hybrid architecture,” this creation presents a literal two-sided expression of the Maison’s identity. One end features the iconic panther in motion, captured mid-pounce. The other holds a minimalist time display. This is Cartier’s interpretation of the classic “Toi et Moi” motif—you and me—with a feline twist: one side tells the time, the other tells a story.
The design language recalls earlier artistic explorations like the Reflection de Cartier, yet the 2025 Panthère Bangle pushes the silhouette further into high sculpture.
➤ Versions
1. White Gold Version
Material: White gold
Gem Setting: Fully snow-set with 1,103 brilliant-cut diamonds (11.9 ct), emerald eyes for the panther and Onyx nose and fur-set onyx spots, a technique mimicking natural fur texture through folded metal
Dial: Pavé-set
This is a full high-jewelry creation, with intense brilliance and meticulous gemstone artistry, forming the most extravagant version of the piece.
2. Yellow Gold Version
Material: Yellow gold
Design Motif:
Graphic style with black lacquer spots across the panther's body
Tsavorite garnet eyes
Dial adorned with 23 diamonds (0.78 ct), including a single brilliant-cut diamond at the 12 o’clock mark
Dial: Black lacquer finish
This version leans more on visual contrast and bold character, using lacquer instead of full gem setting to enhance the panther’s silhouette.
➤ Technical Specifications
Movement: Quartz
Functions: Hours and minutes
Dial Options: Black or pavé diamond-set, depending on version
Available Sizes: 150mm, 160mm, or 170mm wrist sizes
Strap/Structure: Solid precious metal bangle form White gold version has 1,103 diamonds and Yellow gold version has 23 diamonds and lacquer elements
Every inch is designed to express Cartier’s mastery over contrasting textures, animalistic elegance, and the fine balance between form and function.
Panthère de Cartier Collection
In 2025, Cartier takes its emblematic Panthère de Cartier line to a new level of brilliance. Revered for its iconic bracelet-style design, the Panthère is now presented in gem-set configurations that amplify its jewelry-first identity. These new extensions enhance the watch’s already fluid and elegant aesthetic with diamond-set bezels, lacquered detailing, and a dazzling high-jewelry interpretation.
A masterclass in refinement, this year's additions offer both wearable luxury and artistic craftsmanship, true to Cartier’s enduring legacy of blending horology and design.
➤ Key Models
1. Standard Panthère – Rose & Yellow Gold (Gem-Set Editions)
Cartier introduces four core versions of the Panthère, split between yellow gold and rose gold, with each available in two case sizes. These models are refined with full bracelets and gem-set bezels, lending a soft shimmer across the wrist.
Case Sizes:
36.5mm × 26.7mm × 6.8mm (Large model)
30.3mm × 22mm × 6.05mm (Small model)
Movement: Quartz
Design Highlights:
Fully diamond-set bracelets
Gem-set bezels using brilliant-cut diamonds
Silver dials
Smoothly integrated metal construction, true to the Panthère’s bracelet-watch heritage
These editions retain the Panthère’s sensual lines and high-wearability while enriching it with a precious, eye-catching finish.
2. High-Jewelry Zebra Dial Panthère
Arguably the most dramatic release in the Panthère family this year, this one-of-a-kind high-jewelry model plays with texture, color, and animal motifs. It represents a bold evolution in Cartier’s exploration of patterned gem-setting and lacquer work.
Dial:
Graphic, zebra-inspired pattern
Black and golden brown lacquer detailing
Gem-Setting:
145 snow-set stones on the dial
314 diamonds across the case
86 spessartites (orange/yellow-toned garnets)
Movement: Quartz
This version is a statement piece—not only as a fine watch, but as a wearable sculpture, pushing the Panthère's aesthetic into bold, graphic territory. It also marks a shift from the rainbow gem-set trend of recent years to a more design-led storytelling approach.
Explore and Enquire about Cartier’s Latest Releases with Jewels by Love
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As an official partner directly connected to Cartier and other esteemed maisons, we offer access to the newest releases, including the 2025 Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets, the updated Tank Louis Cartier, and high-jewelry icons like the Panthère and Tressage collections.
Here, you don’t just browse—you experience, ask, and discover. Whether you're looking to explore Newest or regular models in Cartier’s collection, feel free to inquire about availability and pre-orders, our in-house experts are here to guide you with genuine insight and care.
