The Cartier Tortue makes its grand return, reintroducing one of the brands with the most timeless designs. First introduced in 1912, this elegantly curved timepiece has long been a symbol of refined craftsmanship.
Now, as part of the exclusive Privé collection, it returns with a modern tribute to its storied past. The 2024 lineup includes a monopusher chronograph inspired by the 1920s original with sleek time-only models. With just 200 pieces available in platinum and yellow gold.
It’s a celebration of Cartier’s watchmaking legacy. Let’s dive into the history, evolution, and what makes this limited release so extraordinary.
The History and Evolution of the Cartier Tortue
The Cartier Tortue, introduced in 1912, has been a symbol of horological artistry for over a century. One of Cartier’s earliest wristwatch case designs, its distinctive tortoise-inspired shape allowed for a unique blend of aesthetics and mechanical sophistication. From a simple time-only model to groundbreaking chronographs and minute repeaters, the Tortue has evolved through various limited editions and technical innovations. Today, it remains one of Cartier’s most collectible and exclusive timepieces.
1912: The Birth of the Tortue
Designed by Louis Cartier, the Tortue (French for “tortoise”) was Cartier’s third-ever wristwatch case, following the Santos-Dumont (1904) and Tonneau (1906). Unlike traditional round watches of the time, the Tortue featured a curved, barrel-like silhouette, offering a distinct alternative to conventional case shapes.
Source: Cartier Tonneau Ref. WGTN0006
The early Tortue models were time-only pieces, adhering to Cartier’s signature design elements:
- White dial with bold Roman numerals
- Railroad minute track
- Flame-blued Breguet hands
- Octagonal crown
- Very slim bezel and a matte dial
(Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir during 1920s)
1928 - 1930: Both Minute Repeater and Single Button Chronograph Introduced
The Tortue Minute Repeater was Cartier’s first-ever striking watch produced in a series, inspired by a 1928 archival piece.
- Case Material: Yellow, Pink, and White Gold (25 pieces each)
- Case Size: 30mm x 33mm
- Movement: Developed by the European Watch & Clock Company using a LeCoultre ébauche
Cartier Tortue Minute Repeater (1928)
Notable Auction Sales
- 1929 Model – Sold at Antiquorum (2002) for nearly 1M CHF
- 2018 (Christie’s) – Sold for CHF 312,500
The Tortue Monopoussoir was a single-button chronograph, where the start, stop, and reset functions were all controlled by a single pusher integrated into the crown. The movement was developed by the European Watch & Clock Company, a joint venture between Cartier and Edmond Jaeger of Jaeger-LeCoultre.
- Size: 25mm x 35mm
- Movement: Traditional column wheel chronograph with horizontal clutch
- Dial Features: Slim bezel, matte dial, Breguet hands, chemin de fer minute track
{ Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph (1929) }
Yellow Gold Tortue Monopoussoir (1930) source
These early Tortue Monopoussoir models were produced in very limited numbers. To date, only 11 original pieces have surfaced at auction.
- 2017 Auction (Christie’s): Sold for CHF 62,500
- 2021 Auction (Phillips): Sold for CHF 189,000
Mid-20th Century: Cartier’s Expansion & Quartz Shift
After Pierre Cartier’s passing in 1964, the family sold the business, leading to rapid expansion. In 1973, Cartier introduced Les Must de Cartier, an affordable luxury line, followed by the Must de Cartier Tank (1977)—its first mass-produced watch. This shift saw production skyrocket from 3,000 to over 160,000 watches annually, solidifying Cartier’s dominance in the quartz era.
Source: Les Must De Cartier Watch
1998–2008: The Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) Revival
In 1998, Cartier revived the Tortue under the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP), a series dedicated to mechanical excellence.
Tortue CPCP Monopoussoir (Ref. 2396 & Ref. 2356)
For the 1999 reissue of the Tortue Monopoussoir, Cartier collaborated with Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA), a movement development company founded by Denis Flageollet (De Bethune), Vianney Halter, and François-Paul Journe.
Movement: Caliber 045MC – A manual-winding chronograph with an oscillating pinion clutch.
Ref. 2396 (White Gold):
The Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir 2396 exudes elegance with its 18K white gold case, shaped in the iconic Tortue design inspired by Louis Cartier’s 1912 model. It features a white rosette guilloché dial, complemented by blued steel Breguet-style hands and a deep blue chemin de fer (railway track) minute track, evoking a vintage aesthetic. The slightly curved caseback ensures a comfortable fit, while the grey Saffiano leather strap and white gold folding buckle enhance its sophisticated appeal.
Cartier Tortue Ref. 2396 (White Gold Chronograph)
Ref. 2356 (Yellow Gold)
The Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir 2356 in 18K yellow gold features an elegant white rosette guilloché dial, paired with blued steel Breguet-style hands for a timeless aesthetic. The black chemin de fer (railway track) minute track adds a vintage touch, inspired by 1920s models. Its slightly curved case-back ensures comfort, while the Mr Watchley Grained Navy Blue leather strap and yellow gold pin buckle enhance its refined look.
Cartier Tortue Ref. 2396 (White Gold Chronograph)
2024: The Return of the Tortue Monopoussoir
In 2024, Cartier reintroduced the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph as part of its Privé collection, celebrating one of its most distinguished designs. Faithful to its 1912 origins, the new Tortue models retain their curved tonneau case, Roman numerals, and sapphire cabochon crown, now with elongated lugs and a slimmer profile.
Available in platinum and yellow gold, both the chronograph and time-only models are strictly limited to 200 pieces per variant, making them a sought-after collector’s item.
The Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph
The Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph (Ref. WHTO0008 in platinum, Ref. WHTO0007 in yellow gold) is a refined take on Cartier’s single-button chronograph heritage. Measuring 43.7mm x 34.8mm, with a 10.2mm thickness, it is powered by the manual-winding Caliber 1928 MC, which revives the legendary monopoussoir movement from the 1998 CPCP edition. The silvered opaline dial, blued hands, and chemin de fer minute track preserve Cartier’s signature aesthetic, while the addition of an exhibition case back allows for a view of the movement’s intricate mechanics.
Both watches feature a Roman numeral track interrupted by large subdials. The numerals are raised and rhodium-plated on the platinum model, whereas on the yellow-gold version, they are printed in black. The signature cabochon-set crown and elegantly curved case reflect Cartier’s Art Deco influences, a blend of classic design and mechanical sophistication.
Source: Cartier Privé Tortue watch Ref. WHTO0008
Source: Cartier Privé Tortue Watch Ref. WHTO0007
Time-Only Cartier Tortue Models
For those drawn to a more understated style, the time-only Tortue models (Ref. WGTO008 in platinum, Ref. WGTO006 in yellow gold) embody classic Cartier elegance. These pieces measure 41.4mm x 32.9mm, with an ultra-thin 7.2mm profile, and house the manual-winding Caliber 430 MC movement, renowned for its precision and slim construction. The platinum model features a silvered dial with blued sword hands, while the yellow-gold version stands out with a champagne-grained dial and golden apple-shaped hands, adding a warm, vintage-inspired touch.
Source: Cartier Prive Tortue Watch Ref. WGTO0008
Source: Cartier Privé Tortue Watch Ref. WGTO0006
For collectors seeking an even more exclusive release, Cartier has also introduced a diamond-set platinum Tortue (Ref. WJTO0010), featuring a refined case adorned with diamonds. This ultra-limited model is restricted to just 50 pieces, making it the rarest of the 2024 lineup.
Source: Cartier Privé Tortue Watch Ref. WJTO0010
Explore Cartier Tortue More Models at Jewel's By Love
Explore our Cartier Tortue collection at Jewel's By Love, a prestigious luxury watch retailer with a heritage dating back to the 1800s. As a sixth-generation family-run business, we have built a legacy of expertise in fine horology and earned authorized retailer status with some of the world’s most esteemed watch brands, including Cartier, Patek Philippe, Breguet, and Nomos.
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