The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette Ref. 5395PT/RS/9WU in platinum features an ultra-thin skeletonised movement with tourbillon, uniting technical mastery and timeless elegance.
Introduction to a Horological Masterpiece
The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette Ref. 5395 is a true emblem of mechanical ingenuity and timeless design, representing the pinnacle of the maison’s 240-year legacy in fine watchmaking. Crafted in 950 platinum, this exceptional timepiece redefines what is possible in ultra-thin tourbillon engineering, while simultaneously showcasing the aesthetic beauty of full skeletonisation. Unlike many openworked watches, the 5395PT/RS/9WU achieves a rare harmony—its intricate mechanical architecture is not simply exposed but thoughtfully framed and artistically sculpted to create a symmetrical, architectural dial design that captivates at every glance. The combination of precious materials, innovative engineering, and hand-finished decoration makes it a masterpiece destined for the most discerning collectors.
Platinum Case Construction
The 41 mm case is entirely forged from 950 platinum, a noble metal known for its density, luster, and durability, lending the watch a reassuring presence on the wrist while maintaining refined elegance. The iconic round profile reflects Breguet’s classic aesthetic heritage, while the extra-thin architecture—made possible by the maison’s technical mastery—ensures an incredibly comfortable wear for a watch of such complexity. Every detail of the exterior reflects perfection in craftsmanship: from the precise polishing of the smooth bezel to the signature fine fluting along the caseband, an instantly recognisable element in Breguet’s design DNA. This is not mere ornamentation—it is functional artistry, allowing the watch to be handled with ease while reinforcing its timeless aesthetic.
Sapphire Crystal & Exhibition Caseback
The front is adorned with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, treated with anti-reflective coating to ensure every detail of the skeletonised movement is visible even under bright light. On the reverse, a sapphire caseback invites the wearer into the heart of Breguet’s mechanical world, revealing the ultra-thin calibre in its entirety. Here, every component is a work of art—bridges are finely hand-bevelled, interior angles are painstakingly polished, and the gear train’s flow is harmonised to enhance visual symmetry. This transparency turns the watch into a living mechanical sculpture, where the interplay of light, metal, and movement creates a mesmerising spectacle from both sides of the case.
Skeletonised Dial with Signature Hands
The dial of the 5395 is not so much a surface as it is a three-dimensional architectural frame. Entirely skeletonised, it showcases a structural latticework of bridges and plates, cut away with surgical precision to reveal the interplay of gears, escapement, and tourbillon. Against this intricate backdrop, Breguet blued steel hands, painstakingly shaped into the brand’s iconic hollow “apple” design, sweep gracefully across the dial. The deep blue heat-tempering of the steel provides a subtle yet striking colour contrast against the cool tones of platinum and rhodium-plated components. Each hand is perfectly proportioned for legibility, proving that functional elegance need not be sacrificed in the pursuit of artistic openness.
The Ultra-Thin Tourbillon
Dominating the lower portion of the dial is the tourbillon carriage, a mechanical ballet in constant motion. Here, Breguet celebrates its historic invention from 1801, reimagined for the modern era with ultra-thin engineering that allows the entire watch to remain exceptionally slim despite the complexity of the mechanism. The petite seconde is mounted directly on the tourbillon axis, offering a hypnotic visual indicator of time’s passage as the cage makes a full rotation every 60 seconds. This combination of technical performance and visual artistry exemplifies Breguet’s philosophy—an innovation originally created to improve precision has been transformed into a defining aesthetic hallmark.
Exceptional Movement Engineering
The calibre inside the 5395 is a testament to mechanical mastery and decorative refinement. Completely openworked, the movement demands not only engineering expertise but also countless hours of artisanal finishing. Each bridge has been pared down to its structural minimum, then bevelled and polished entirely by hand to create mirror-like surfaces. Even the hidden components receive the same level of attention, embodying the maison’s commitment to excellence at every level. The skeletonisation process allows maximum light penetration, which means the movement comes alive under changing lighting conditions—shadows and reflections dance across the architecture, further enhancing its sculptural qualities.
Case Dimensions and Wearing Comfort
While highly complex, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is remarkably wearable. The 41 mm diameter strikes the perfect balance between modern presence and traditional proportions, while the slender case height of the Extra-Plat series ensures the watch slips easily beneath a cuff. The 21 mm lug width creates visual and ergonomic harmony, allowing the strap to curve naturally to the wrist. The non-screwed crown, discreetly proportioned and fluted for grip, provides easy winding without disrupting the clean symmetry of the design. This is a watch engineered for daily elegance, not just display.
Strap & Clasp Design
Securing the watch is a hand-stitched alligator leather strap of exceptional quality, chosen for its durability, supple feel, and refined texture. The strap’s rich, deep tone—whether in classic black or warm brown—complements the metallic shimmer of the platinum case and the icy brilliance of the skeletonised movement. Completing the ensemble is a three-blade deployant clasp, also crafted from platinum, which not only ensures a secure fit but also contributes to the watch’s long-term comfort and wearability. This clasp design allows for smooth opening and closing while preserving the leather’s integrity over years of use.
The Breguet Legacy in Modern Form
With the 5395, Breguet once again proves its ability to merge tradition with innovation. The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette draws on centuries of heritage, from the hand-finishing techniques that mirror the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet himself to the advanced manufacturing that makes possible such extreme thinness without compromising durability. Every element of the watch—from the finely fluted caseband to the signature blued hands—carries the unmistakable mark of Breguet, yet the fully skeletonised movement places it firmly in the realm of contemporary haute horlogerie.
A Collector’s Statement Piece
For collectors, the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is more than a timekeeping instrument—it is a wearable testament to mechanical art. It combines precious materials, sophisticated engineering, and museum-grade finishing in a way that few modern watches can match. The platinum construction, ultra-thin skeletonised movement, and historic tourbillon complication make it one of the most coveted references in Breguet’s contemporary catalogue. Owning the 5395 is not simply a matter of taste—it is a commitment to preserving and celebrating the pinnacle achievements of fine Swiss watchmaking.
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| Brand | Breguet |
|---|---|
| Case Metal | Platinum |
| Case Width (mm) | 41 |
| Case Length (mm) | 41 |
| Diameter (mm) | 41 |
| Case Shape | Round |
| Water Resistance (m) | 30 |
| Case Back Material | Sapphire Crystal |
| Exhibition Back | Yes |
| Case Thickness (mm) | 7.7 |
Breguet is renowned as one of the most prolific and the most respected watch manufacturers in the world. The company was founded in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet. For around 250 years now, Breguet has made some of the most notable and legendary watches in the world. The company’s designs are characterized by extreme attention to detail and a strong penchant for innovation. Breguet watches are known for their intricate engineering and stunning aesthetics. Every detail of the watches is designed to enhance both the aesthetics and the function of the watch. These factors make Breguet watches a great choice for watch collectors and wearers who seek a watch that looks as good as it performs.
